Immediately I’d gotten the feeling that I’d been here before. Small one-way streets lined with sherbet colored homes, paint chipping off and local flowers cascading down the windowsills. Large Colonial-style buildings intermittently break up the charming residential ones, many of them churches or government offices past and present.
There was a clear Latin vibe in the city. Bodegas on every corner, filled not only with the typical grocery wares, but also a few patrons stationed at the bar having an afternoon Presidente, the local beer. Locals didn’t reserve their afternoon chill sessions to the bodegas; many brought plastic chairs to their doorframe or the nearest corner, posting up for passers-by to say hello. Cat calls were part of the soundtrack, ranging from “!Que guapa!” to kissy noises, all of which stopped the moment you got further than ten feet away. Tree-filled parks were prevalent too, often filled with those seeking respite from the afternoon sun. With a full (yet relaxed) energy in the city, you’d almost forget you were on an island, just minutes away from the water.
For a leisurely weekend in Santo Domingo, the best things to do are to walk around, lounge like a local, and eat. Though Zona Colonial is one of the most popular areas on the island, the pace lacks the hurried I-must-see-everything vibe that frequently consumes tourist destinations. Instead, adjust to the calm and accept it. Sit down, grab a cerveza, and enjoy.
Day One
Hotel Conde De Peñalba
Located directly on the main square in Zona Colonial, the historic Old Town in Santo Domingo, Hotel Conde De Peñalba couldn’t be more centrally located. Comfortable, stylish, and reasonably priced, it’s an easy and enjoyable place to stay for a long weekend in Santo Domingo. If you aren’t planning on taking part of the neighborhood’s nightlife, request a room in the back to avoid the loud live music that fills the square during the evenings.
Zona Bici
Just down the street from the hotel you’ll find Zona Bici, a coffee shop/bike rental combo. For the most delicious cup of coffee in town, grab an iced one to enjoy before taking a beach cruiser out to explore. The Instagrammably art-covered walls don’t hurt, either.
Time Vegetarian Kitchen
When you need a respite from taking photos of all the beautiful facades, doors, and flowers, head to Time Vegetarian Kitchen for a healthy pick me up. While their entire menu is vegetarian, my personal favorite is the Zucchini Noodles with Putanesca sauce. Wonderfully al dente strands of zucchini sit atop a robust tomato sauce, complete with capers, garlic, and lots of pepper. It’s so delicious, you almost forget that what you’re eating is healthy.
Mamey Libreria Café
Vibrant blue tiles set the backdrop for a hanging garden of greens in the entryway of this café-meets-event space. With a book shop, two outdoor courtyards, and a fully stocked event schedule, Mamey is a great place to relax with a coffee and a notebook (or catch a performance if you’re lucky!).
Lulu Tasting Bar
For dinner, make your way back towards Time, but opt for its sister restaurant, Lulu, instead. Their menu is comprised of small plates, all intended for easy sharing. The Salmon Skewers are my personal favorite, grilled to perfection, lightly drizzled with teriyaki sauce, and topped with sesame seeds. And while making your menu choices, don’t forget that Lulu is attached to a butcher and cheese shop, so all meats and cheeses are of the highest quality.
Day Two
Buche Perico
After your daily morning coffee at Zona Bici, a bit of park lounging, and a stroll through Zona Colonial, you’ve probably worked up an appetite. Buche Perico, though subtle from the outside, has a stunning greenhouse as its interior courtyard. With ceiling close to twenty-feet high and plants of all varieties lining the walls, the jungle-like atmosphere is enough to bring you back again and again . . . but the food is delicious, as well. For something refreshing, try the spicy citrus juice. It’ll wake you up just in time for your afternoon cocktail.
La Alpargateria
From the outside it appears as though you’re walking into a shoe store, but those in the know are aware of the sanctuary out back: their café. Do take some time to peruse the shoes, which are espadrilles in all materials and colors. Shopping bags in hand, continue through to the back to a tree-lined heaven that offers a wide range of coffees, juices, cervezas, and cocktails. Grab a couch on the outer edge or a table in the middle and relax under the canopy of trees blocking you from the harsh afternoon sun. While I didn’t visit the place at night, I get the feeling that it has quite the vibe once the sun goes down.
Hodelpa Nicolás de Ovando – Restaurante 1502
Enjoy your final meal on the beautiful terrace belonging to Hodelpa Nicolas de Ovando, a four-star property just blocks from the center of Zona Colonial. Their menu is vast and tasty. I’d recommend the mahi-mahi ceviche to start. Unlike the traditional Peruvian style, the bites of fish are cut to a smaller size, letting them “cook” more fully in the citrus/leche de tigre sauce. They add julienned peppers and onions for additional crunch, making it the perfect blend of texture in your mouth. Opt for an Asian-fusion dish for your main, paired with a craft cocktail, for a burst of flavors.
