What first struck me about Bodrum were the surface-level similarities to Greece. Less than an hour by ferry to the nearest of the Greek Islands, both places have a similar style of architecture, with overwhelmingly white square buildings decorated with brightly colored doors and shutters. Bright pink, yellow, and blue flowers cascade down exteriors, with abundant greenery lining the winding, and not quite finished, streets. Stray cats roam like they own the place as stray dogs lounge mid-sidewalk, basking in the sun. At first glance the food reads similar, as well: fresh grilled fish follows appetizers meant to be shared, many made with local produce and thick Greek yogurt (which, here, is just called yogurt). Add stunning sunsets over the Mediterranean, and you could call Greece and Turkey twins, or at least close cousins.
I notice Turkish hospitality in the form of invitations for tea, pride in their regional cuisine, and a desire to proudly boast about their fine country, even with a strong language barrier. A fact I learned from one such conversation is that the entire area of Bodrum is split into ten different tiny beach towns, each with their own waterfront and village. Driving from one to another is easy either on your own or in a cab, and they each have an individual identity. Bodrum City includes the Old Town, the noteworthy Bodrum Castle, and the Mausoleum of Halicarnassus (one of the Seven Wonder of the Ancient World). It has a market, an extensive marina, and a boardwalk lined with restaurants and bars for miles. With seemingly endless options for fresh fish and meze, I continuously gravitated towards the below spots for the individual charm.
Vamos Bodrum
Open and airy, both the front and back of the restaurant are encased by floor to ceiling sliding glass windows, which I have yet to see closed. Cut almost equally in thirds, my favorite seat is in the indoor part of the restaurant, getting the breeze from three sides. I avoid the street noise out front, and the bugs in the back, plus, maybe most importantly, I have an outlet and strong WiFi from my preferred table.
Mismatched furniture in shades of white, light brown, and varying marbles come together in a wonderfully cohesive manner. Linen curtains hang open on the three window-lined sides of the space, and exposed original stone juxtaposes the smooth texture of glass. Beamed wooden ceilings painted white hang modern chandeliers, and the few bits of wall space that do exist are used to hang large woven installations. Greenery is abundant, and signs including “trust me, you can dance – vodka” and “just beat it” next to a drawing of a whisk, take up the little wall space not occupied by liquor bottles and glassware behind the bar. Covers of popular music, from the Beatles to Taylor Swift, carry over the sound system, further enhancing the bright ambiance.
The menu highlights are the burrata caprese (always), the grilled salmon main, and the pizzas. Don’t forget to save room for desert; their tiramisu is served in a terracotta planter, equipped with mint spring on top, creating the appearance of a newly planted bud. Their drink menu is extensive, with cocktails and non-alcoholic cocktails galore, plus all varieties of coffee, and Turkish wine.
Iki Sandal
Past the harbor, through the market, out the other side, and up a hill, Iki Sandal is not a place one stumbles upon by accident. Recommended to me by numerous locals, Iki Sandal takes the traditional meze up a notch.
Once seated with your drinks, the waiter brings an extensive tray of their cold meze options, presenting it to you like a dessert cart. They explain the dishes, letting you point and pick what you want. After they’ve talked you into more mezes than you think you could possibly eat, you’re reminded that this platter does not include hot mezes or any of the fresh seafood offerings. They talk you into even more dishes. My biggest recommendation is to follow their lead instead of your traditional palate. The items I gravitated towards paled in comparison to the specials that lit up the waiter’s face – a nutty almond tapenade, freshly stuffed grape leaves, and octopus carpaccio were ordered time and time again. Unfortunately, I always went so heavy on the mezes that I didn’t get a chance to try their mains. Regardless, the food is delicious and a welcome change from the other identical tavernas throughout Bodrum.
Joy Art Café
Joy Art Café is located on a tiny winding street just off the main drag, and its airiness makes it immediately welcoming. The second welcome is made by the friendly hostess and proprietor, who greet you warmly and will know your order and your name by your second visit. It’s clear that kindness is their motive, asking if you like your coffee strong, medium or weak before proceeding to make an iced black coffee or cappuccino to your exact specifications. Their menu is light – a few salads and sandwiches – but the ingredients are fresh. The décor is kitschy, with arts and crafts projects lining the walls, but somehow, against the bright yellow backdrop, it works. For me, this is an ideal place to post up and work for the afternoon, with decent WiFi and positivity in the air. When work calls came through, they even turn down the music, giving a slight nod and smile to show their support.
Musto Bistro
Musto restaurant is along the main stretch of the Bodrum City Marina; its deep red awning differentiates it in a sea of white and blue restaurants with seemingly identical style. Offering only outdoor seating, their extensive front patio is filled with white wooden tables and chairs, rarely an empty seat in sight. That’s the first hint that the food will be good: even during off season, this place packs a crowd.
Their best dishes by far are their pastas and their seafood, with some of the most tender octopus I’ve ever had being an unforgettable highlight. Their ricotta ravioli is simple and delicious in a flavorful red sauce, and the fresh shrimp appetizers are a clear indication that you are a few meters from the sea. Homemade bread is offered with each meal; dotted with dill it packs enough flavor that you find yourself repeatedly opening the bag for another slice. Their red wines by the glass are reasonably priced and reasonably delicious, and after dinner Limoncello is served in a martini glass on the rocks.
